In celebration of the 7th Anniversary of ÇaFleureBon, eight perfumers were invited to create perfumes drawing inspiration from a brief written by the blog's founder and Editor in Chief, Michelyn Camen. Her request called for a perfume powerful enough to attract good fortune and ward off negativity - even the dreaded curse of the "evil eye". House of Matriarch created ANTIMONY in response to Michelyn's brief.
Charred frankincense, kewra, henna, Palo Santo, galangal, sandalwood ashes, spikenard, ghee, copal, oud and precious attars of mitti, kadam and rose have all been used to create enchanted cosmetics throughout history. They are all found in ANTIMONY which contains exactly 111 individual notes. Subtle by design, exotic florals push up from a primitive base to bloom on your skin as they emanate like an ancient wisp of fine bakhoor.
These ancient aromas transport the wearer like a magic carpet to a dimension where cosmetics have magical purposes - the very essence of "a glamour." A nod to a forgotten lifetime when eye shadow was compounded from powdered minerals, oils and the ashes of incense and applied by a shaman or priestess or in wealthy kingdoms, a Court Perfumer.
The minerals antimony and malachite have been among those used around the eyes throughout time due to their reflective properties - they ricochet bad vibes like mirrors. Since they are considered toxic (the alchemists would argue otherwise) they have been banned from use in cosmetics. Mystics and folk healers around the world still use them for their prehistorical purposes in treating ailments of mind and spirit and for compounding sacred cosmetics.
High Perfumery is a branch of Epicureanism. Those familiar with the philosophies of Epicureanism know that the goals are beauty, inspiration and tranquility - the same goals of fine fragrance creation. Here, I share my Manifesta of High Perfumery - the 8 standards which can elevate a perfume from a mere scent to a work of High Art.
Epicureanism must be distinguished from hedonism, which always involves a negative aftermath - a price to pay. If the restraint necessary for the practice of Epicureanism is lost, the pleasure is corrupted into divine discontent and dis-ease ensues. A perfume can be exceptionally beautiful and alluring, however if it does not meet the standards of Epicureanism, it cannot be considered High Perfumery.
NATURE IS THE ULTIMATE LUXURY
"House" (aka Creative House) is the industry term for a company that independently designs and produces perfume. A "Nose" (aka Perfumer) works from a fragrance organ composing fragrances (or flavors) from base materials to create accords that are arranged into the final product. Like a composer that creates music, the Perfumer knows every note inside and out - they could play "blindfolded" so to speak. They write their own music, drawing inspiration from a multitude of sources, and can deliver on a brief. Like musicians, each perfumer has a certain "style" or "sound".
"Brands" are re-sellers of perfumes they purchase from "houses". Many people mistakenly refer to "brands" as "houses". This is inaccurate and also misleading as it implies that the brand is the designer and producer of the perfume rather than a re-seller. Going back to the music reference, brands would be akin to the "record label", not the orchestra.
On the part of the reviewers and fragrance critics, this is just an innocent mistake of the uninformed. However, when done by the brand itself in a direct attempt to deceive the customer into believing they are the creator of the fragrance, it really stinks because the misinformation (aka "marketing campaign") trickles down to the early adopters and brand evangelists, making them an accessory to the deception.
When a brand owner, aka "Creative Director" brazenly poses as the Perfumer creating the juice, things get even choppier - and this exact indiscretion has burst the bubbles of a few notable brands in recent years. Milli Vanilli, anyone?
All houses can have "brands" and many houses have several brands in their portfolios, however, 98% of brands are NOT houses and should not be referred to as such. Consider this important point of distinction: there are hundreds of thousands of brands that sell perfume but only a handful of "Creative Fragrance Houses" worldwide.
Do you know which house produces the perfume your wearing (or writing about)? Have you wondered why so many perfumes smell the same? Hopefully learning the distinction between brands and houses will help you understand the answers to these questions, and invite you to ask new questions. One thing is for sure, in today's age of transparency, there are fewer and fewer secrets about the mystical world of fragrance.
More than 30% of women and nearly 40% of men have SPECIFIC ANOSMIA - olfactory blind spots which impact their evaluation of fragrances.
Now you can put your olfactory sense to the test to discover what you may be missing with the first of it's kind PERFUME SPECIFIC ANOSMIA TEST PANEL compiled by our Perfumer Christi Meshell. The panel tests your detection of eight common anosmic materials commonly found in fine fragrances that could be affecting your perfume evaluations and creations. Most are base notes, all are cruelty free and the kit employs both natural and synthetic materials.
Once you learn your results, the remainder of your sample can be used to train your nose to more effectively detect the odors you had difficulty smelling - or perhaps couldn't smell at all. There have been amazing clinical successes in decreasing 'thresholds of detection' in both men and women who have used this method to increase their sensitivity to aromas that were previously a challenge to detect.
For those who take smelling seriously, this panel is a must! Brand owners, creative directors and fragrance critics can now be sure they are among the 60% who can "smell it all" before they begin impressing their ideas and creations onto the rest of the smelling world!
The economically priced kit includes an email consultation with Christi regarding your results after your test is complete. Score perfect results and you will receive a "Perfect Nose" certificate which you can proudly share on your website or blog.
*DISCLAIMER: This panel is for fun, education and self discovery - results do not constitute a medical diagnosis, nor is there a guarantee that improvement in olfaction will result from studying with this kit. All results are being kept confidential.
House of Matriarch perfumes are designed to IMPROVE with time and proper storage, unlike mass produced perfumes which have a two year shelf life. Here our Perfumer Christi Meshell explains why our perfumes are capable of being cellared (unlike designer perfumes) and offers her tips for optimizing the collectability of fine perfumes.
Fragrance is love! Imagine receiving a surprise delivery and opening the vintage style mailing tube to find the House of Matriarch perfume you've been longing for!
Choose from 12 our top selling, award winning perfumes in our most popular 1/2 ounce size - all at the sweetest prices of the year. We can send your "Liquid Valentine" to anywhere we ship - order one for yourself, a friend (don't forget MOM!) or even send one anonymously as the ultimate RAOK or Secret Admirer gift.
Quantities are limited - order between January 7th and February 7th for perfect-timing delivery. Leave any special instructions in the comments section of your check-out and please initiate a new order for each delivery address.