WHAT IS "HIGH PERFUMERY"? HOUSE OF MATRIARCH PERFUMER CHRISTI MESHELL SHARES HER MANIFESTA

Posted on March 04, 2017 by Christi Meshell

High Perfumery is a branch of Epicureanism.  Those familiar with the philosophies of Epicureanism know that the goals are beauty, inspiration and tranquility - the same goals of fine fragrance creation.  Here, I share my Manifesta of High Perfumery - the 8 standards which can elevate a perfume from a mere scent to a work of High Art. 

 

 1.  Contains noble materials – those which cannot be faked or reproduced by man - only by Time and Nature.
    
 2. Possesses a quintessence. The arrangement does not already exist in nature or anywhere else - it’s novel. It forms a new smell where none of the individual essences dominate.
    
 3. Evokes the desire to be savored and enjoyed - it has an air of luxury and rarity. 
     
 4. Improves with time like a fine compounded spirit or fine wine. No denaturant other than the fragrant essences may be used.
   
 5. Crafted and refined by “nose” from the base form of the raw ingredient in batches not larger than an individual perfumer can manage.  Made by hand, not machines.
    
 6. Offers a benefit to psyche and spirit by elevating or elating. 
  
 7. Causes no harmful effects within the body. Experimental and new essences with less than 70 years of safety data cannot be included.
  
8. Is created ethically and sustainably.
  

Epicureanism must be distinguished from hedonism, which always involves a negative aftermath - a price to pay.  If the restraint necessary for the practice of Epicureanism is lost, the pleasure is corrupted into divine discontent and dis-ease ensues.  A perfume can be exceptionally beautiful and alluring, however if it does not meet the standards of Epicureanism, it cannot be considered High Perfumery.

NATURE IS THE ULTIMATE LUXURY

Posted in 100% natural perfume, alchemy, christi meshell, creative, epicurean, essence, fragrance, fragrance house, fragrances, high, house, industry, inspiration, manifesta, noble, olfactory, perfume, perfumer, perfumery, savor, secrets, the best, tranquility

FRAGRANCE HOUSE OR PERFUME BRAND? THE DIFFERENCE AND WHY IT MATTERS

Posted on February 19, 2017 by Matriarch Blog

"House" (aka Creative House) is the industry term for a company that independently designs and produces perfume.  A "Nose" (aka Perfumer) works from a fragrance organ composing fragrances (or flavors) from base materials to create accords that are arranged into the final product.  Like a composer that creates music, the Perfumer knows every note inside and out - they could play "blindfolded" so to speak.  They write their own music, drawing inspiration from a multitude of sources, and can deliver on a brief.  Like musicians, each perfumer has a certain "style" or "sound". 

"Brands" are re-sellers of perfumes they purchase from "houses".  Many people mistakenly refer to "brands" as "houses".  This is inaccurate and also misleading as it implies that the brand is the designer and producer of the perfume rather than a re-seller. Going back to the music reference, brands would be akin to the "record label", not the orchestra.

On the part of the reviewers and fragrance critics, this is just an innocent mistake of the uninformed.  However, when done by the brand itself in a direct attempt to deceive the customer into believing they are the creator of the fragrance, it really stinks because the misinformation (aka "marketing campaign") trickles down to the early adopters and brand evangelists, making them an accessory to the deception.

When a brand owner, aka "Creative Director" brazenly poses as the Perfumer creating the juice, things get even choppier - and this exact indiscretion has burst the bubbles of a few notable brands in recent years.  Milli Vanilli, anyone?

All houses can have "brands" and many houses have several brands in their portfolios, however, 98% of brands are NOT houses and should not be referred to as such.  Consider this important point of distinction: there are hundreds of thousands of brands that sell perfume but only a handful of  "Creative Fragrance Houses" worldwide.  

Do you know which house produces the perfume your wearing (or writing about)? Have you wondered why so many perfumes smell the same?  Hopefully learning the distinction between brands and houses will help you understand the answers to these questions, and invite you to ask new questions.  One thing is for sure, in today's age of transparency, there are fewer and fewer secrets about the mystical world of fragrance. 

Posted in brand, business, christi meshell, creative, fragrance, fragrance house, house, industry, olfactory, perfume, secrets